Remember that in this group the appearance needs of the group are subordinate to the style desires of the individual. We have quite a bit of latitude to use in getting our "look", but some items, styles, etc just won't work. THE WORD OF THE COSTUME COORDINATOR IS IN ALL CASES FINAL. APPEAL TO THE CAPTAIN IF YOU MUST, BUT HE'S ONE OF THOSE COORDINATORS, TOO! Get an opinion before you lay out that hard earned cash! 'Nuff said?
We are going here for: Border region, Scots or English, in a military-on-campaign style, fitting roughly the 2nd half of the sixteenth century.
The basic items you will need at first are: Shirt, breeches, doublet or jacket or jerkin, hat, stockings, acceptable shoes. These are all easily obtainable, most are simple to make or have made if someone close to you has the sewing skills you may lack. To purchase these few items can come to around $250., at a minimum. Most of us wind up making some and buying some. Breeches, for example, are a fairly simple item to produce, even to hand-sew a basic pair. A doublet, on the other hand, can be very complex. A poorly made shirt can be the most uncomfortable thing to wear that ever touches your skin. Planning can avoid discomfort later.
Regarding acceptable shoes: This is one of those areas where we, as a group, have made decisions that are, again, geared to the good of the group, rather than the individual, please read carefully before you spend.
LOW SHOES: Leather, lowheeled, slip-on,laced or with a"latchet" type closure, or a few buckle styles. These must resemble shoes worn in this part of Britain at this time, or be commonly accepted European military styles that a soldier might wind up wearing. This does not include landsknecht~style "kuhmaule" (cow's mouth) wide slashed shoes, or anything else that denotes a particular nationality or region, aside from our own. Some Irish and Scottish styles are acceptable. Also not allowed are modern shoes that don't or can't be made to, resemble period shoes. Specifically disallowed are suede moccasins unless they can be made to look "right". In most cases, these just don't work, unless modified and, in most cases, added to. In this, as in all things, the rule of the appointed costume coordinators is final. Most of the "Wild Soles" type shoes sold at events will work. Avoid the purple ones.
BOOTS: The classic reiver costume of course includes thigh-high leather riding boots, with the tops rolled down, if preferred. These can be purchased from a few sources, starting at around $150. and up. Also acceptable are a pair made by removing the tops from a pair of low heeled modern boots and replacing with high leg sections. Buy boots at thrift stores, and show them to a costume coordinator before you start on this time-consuming project. to be certain the shoe portion is acceptable. We'd suggest purchasing the boots before purchasing $50. worth of leather in a color you can't come close to matching, but, hey! you're all adults, do what you want! Again, a couple of no-nos: Boots with high heels just weren't in use till a couple decades after this time. Boots can have square, round or slightly pointed toes, but "pointy boots", cowboy styles, etc are not to be considered. Boot-type moccasins will be considered on a case-by-case basis, very strictly, most such approvals include a recommendation to replace these very quickly! Gaffer has a boot-moccasin pattern that, with minor modification and the right (heavy) leather, can be used to produce some decent boots. A case can be made, based on a couple period illustrations, for 'foot-lounes' wearing boots of a height just below the knee. Modern "Dingo", "roper" etc boots won't work', don't even ask, but these could also be made from a pair of converted engineer style boots, as above.
Shirt: "natural" color, or white, off white or a dyed shade that would be: a. possible, and b. likely, in our time place. There are several good patterns available, the completed item usually sells for $30 on up at events. Small or no collar, ties, buttons, laces, there are a wide variety of options. Preferred are: cotton or linen, not fancy, go for comfort over style. Huge puffed sleeves or "Irish" bag sleeves are not going to work here.
Doublet: Almost any style seen during Tudor times would fit. We are from a pretty old-fashioned area, and sixteenth century clothing was built to last. We would also have access to recent styles through travel (raiding, mercenary, whatever), thieving, or, even, when the cash was handy, purchase! Think cold climate, durability, and appropriate fabric and colors, when going for the look. Think hot climate when going for construction. Wool actually works better here than might be thought. Decoration has a lot of possibilities, piping, contrasting linings or facings, ribbons, buttons, frogging, panelling, see period prints or woodcuts, the variety may be surprising. The more fancy the item, the more likely to be of a recent (for 1588) style. "Slash and puff" and other extreme styles are not acceptable. "Pinking", a style of small slashes in a pattern, is known to have been used in our time and place. See Costume Coordinators with any questions before you spend the money!
BREECHES: The basic item here is the style referred to as venetian style, which you will here us refer to as "Venetians". Loose, secured below the knee, by buttons, ties, drawstrings, or garters. Waistband tailored or just a drawstring, front fly secured by button or laces, or just "flapped". Keep pockets hidden. Make sure breeches are roomy for comfort. Bagginess in the seat is not necessarily a bad thing. Trim and decoration as for doublets, see the "Derrick" prints for some examples of the variety possible. Extreme styles, exaggerated codpieces, "slash and puff", "pluderhosen", etc are not allowed. Period. It's OK to make breeches from acceptable quiet glen or lowland plaid fabric. Again, ask before you spend, wool fabric is expensive.
EXCEPTION: TREWS(TROUS,etc): Scottish tartan trousers. More form-fitting than breeches, but not tight like they became a century later, these are an acceptable alternative to Venetians. I'd suggest adding these after you have breeches, so you have an option. Cut trews to mid-calf, or like stirrup-pants, with a strap under the instep. I'm not even going to attempt to define "acceptable" plaid patterns and colors here, there will be a section on this, along with fabric and color later on. Suffice to say: natural colors, nothing wild, avoid black or bright red, and, again: ask before you spend.
STOCKINGS: Up to or over the knee, wool is best, although there are some acceptable cottons. Avoid real tight elastic for comfort and looks. Garter em up if need be. A common variation with low-cut shoes is a finer pair next to the skin, with a thick, heavy pair over, commonly "rowled" up or down according to weather. An option to this are "moggins" or cloth gaiters, worn over stockings, with a strap under the instep (inside the shoe), gartered at the top or attached to breeches with laces or points. Real nice and warm when made from heavy tightly woven wool fabric, these can also be rolled or folded down when it warms up. HEADGEAR: Basic types: Bonnet (tam), Brimmed Hat, Flat Cap, "Monmouth" Cap; with variations as noted below: Bonnet: this is the flat, round, knit or felted wood cap associated with Scots for the last 5 centuries. Worn on both sides of the border, it is a practical comfortable item for most times of the year. Keep it large, a closed weave is preferable to open. Solid colors would be more typical, a "two-tone" or maybe a stripe might be ok. Colors: Blue is the well-known standard, at least for Scots, but, for some reason, this seems to be the hardest to find of all. Most "natural" colors would work, especially grays and browns, keep away from brights. Could be decorated with a ribbon, rosette, token, a favor or medal. Quite often a colored cloth would be laced on as a field sign. Brimmed Hat: Round, felt (for the most part, though leather might work) most likely with a domed crown. The brim could be folded up, front or side, or slashed and rolled or left down. Hatband of leather, or twisted braid cloth, or a sash wound around & pinned. Decoration: plumes, feathers, a ribbon or rosette, a badge or religious medal. Many options here, a battered "campaign" version would also be a great look. Flat Cap: A few years out of style by this time, still to be seen among the military, tradesmen and the unfashionable. Really a very practical, comfortable and good looking item. Keep colors quiet, avoid floppy or multi-colored panelled or slashed items. Decorate with cords, ribbons, or as above for Brimmed hats. Monmouth Cap: This is a period term for a basic wool knit cap, similar to a stocking cap. common throughout Britian at this time. Keep it simple, natural colors, wool only, & avoid patterns or multi-colored designs. These were often worn for padding under helmets from the 16th and 17th centuries. BASIC ACCESSORIES:You will need a waist belt. Broad or narrow, but keep it simple. Longer than you might think necessary is better. Simple buckles of brass, iron. Wood, Bone, antler or just tied shut. Avoid shiny brass-colored plated pot metal 20th century crap for buckles. Sorry.
A pouch or wallet, sometimes referred to as a scrip. A simple not-furry sporran type worn in front can work, keep it in period. Large and secure enough to hide a few modern things, watch, money, Faire ID, etc.
A knife - this is not a dagger, rather, an eating/utility knife. Think of a small kitchen paring or utility knife, in a sheath, maybe even sewn to your pouch. Bear in mind that this is a sharp item secured to your waist belt, make certain the sheath actually works BEFORE you bend over too far. Avoid stainless steel.
A dagger - First weapon you need, keep it simple, appropriate to the time and place. Styles like a dirk or a 'ballock knife' will work, as will most other sixteenth century military types. We specifically do not allow: Roundel daggers, swiss style daggers, basilard knives, Landsknecht style daggers or any of the various elaborate, silly looking degenerate Italian or Spanish type things available. Likewise any of those "fantasy" items in the back of the weapon catalogs. Be sensible, avoid stainless steel. Again, think or ask before you spend.
A tankard or mug or cup. Keep it fitting for the time and place and not real fragile. secure it to your belt or pouch or loop it over your knife handle by a thong or hook. Wood, leather, ceramic, pewter, even brass or copper, will work. Aluminum, glass (especially aluminum with a glass bottom!) or styles not known until after 1600 or so, will not work. Go for a cheap bais item, buy a nice one when you can afford it a really nice one can go for $35 to $75. Save your money.
A bedroll: Basic accessory for our on the march look. Wool, solid color or maybe a nice muted plaid or glen plaid. Bigger than just a blanket, big enough to wrap up in and sleep in a ditch on campaign. Roll and tie, hang from shoulder, or roll 'tube-like', sling it over your "like a continental soldier", this is a handy item, and can be had quite cheaply. If any doubt about color or fabric, you guessed it-see costume coordinator.